Day 4: Nara

On Sunday, I packed up my things and stopped at ABOUT LIFE Coffee before hopping on the train at Shibuya to Shinagawa, then the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. Ordinary window seats were already reserved, so I splurged on a Green Car ticket, aka business class. I rode this same train in 2016 and it was a highlight of the trip—watching rural Japan speed by while enjoying a snack and book. This time, I did my research and learned that the thing to do is grab a bento box at the station—I selected a lovely little assortment of vegetables, rice, and fish cake (“30 different items!” the box exclaimed).

From Kyoto, after sorting out my fare adjustment (I somehow messed something up at the ticket machine), I booked the expressed train to Nara, then took a taxi to Hotel New Wakasa, the ryokan (traditional inn) and onsen (hot springs bath) I’d been looking forward to for months. It was everything I’d hoped for—the staff of almost entirely women was incredibly kind and generous in their English explanations of things. They gave me a map and walking route, highlighting where to see sakura and the famous miniature deer of Nara Park.

After a long walk, I returned to check in. I was given yuzu tea and a binder full of information. Once in my room, I immediately changed into the yukata and headed for the public bath, which I miraculously had all to myself. I love a private public bath; there is nothing better. I soaked, scrubbed, soaked, and escaped just as another woman entered. Back in my room, my skin looked pink and plump from the hot, hot water and steam—my cheeks were still rosy by the time I went down to dinner, still in my yukata.

One of the most charming aspects of my last Japan trip was dinner at the Hakone onsen. We were presented with an array of tiny dishes, some brought out in courses, and some cooked right at the table by the heat of the candle. The experience this time was the same, though this time, I was the strange woman dining alone.