Day 1: Jimbaran Bay

Today was a beach day. More accurately, it was a pool overlooking the beach day. The Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay, where I am cosplaying White Lotus, does not deign to have lounge chairs on the beach proper. Instead, you’re forced to sit in shaded cabanas on the stone terrace above, beside a long, narrow pool, where men refill your water without being asked.

I drank water and alternated between leaning against the side of the pool looking out over the water and surfers-in-training and lounging in the shade with a book. I’m reading Prep for the first time since Priya loaned it to me—the definition of a beach read, but much better-written than most. Hours passed, then I walked back through the lushly landscaped property to my room.

This morning, thanks to NyQuil, I woke up at 8:45 and dozed until 10, then walked down to breakfast. After the 19-hour flight from New York to Singapore followed by a four-hour layover and another two-hour flight, I’d more than needed the head-on-pillow time. Really, though, the first flight hadn’t been bad. Somehow, it passed quickly, much more so than six-hour flights to California ever had. Long-haul planes are simply delightful.

After I got to the hotel and was given my key, the man at the desk asked if anyone was joining me later. He was surprised when I said no, I’m here alone. “Is it a special occasion?” he asked, and laughed when I answered, “I’ve just always wanted to come, and I made it happen.” Though he complimented my bravery, I walked away feeling judged. I guess lonely women don’t deserve nice vacations?!

Slightly sadder, I was left in my room by the man who’d driven me down a winding dark path in a gold cart. But then I immediately went for a dip in the tiny private pool in my villa’s little courtyard, showered outdoors under the rare, blue supermoon and thought: maybe sad girl vacation isn’t so bad after all.